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Fatbears Cave
This section gives an idea of how to fit the available hop-ups
The LST is one strong truck, but as with them all - it does have a couple of weak spots.
By doing the modifications on this page BEFORE running your truck, you will save a lot of £$ and heartache.
The `Evil Washer`: It`s unlikely that you`ll still find an engine with this fitted, but it`s worth checking for if you have a new LST under serial number 11000.
It was actually a shim that was meant to take up the play between the crank and the rotary starter. It fails and DESTROYS YOUR ENGINE!!
This can take between 3 tanks and a gallon - but it WILL happen!
Simply remove the engine, ( 4 screws / 3/32nd), remove the starter backplate, remove the one way bearing and finally remove the offending washer. Refitment is a reversal of removal - ensuring that loctite is used on all the threads.
The plastic Diff Cases can’t cope with the power, and they fail they will take out the gears inside. ( See my Diff Maintenance page for help )
Change the AA battery pack for a 2400maH dual pack, ( about $40 from `OnlyBatteryPacks.Com` ). One charge of this lasts about the same as 3 sets of AA batteries - or a good days bashing.
Features: RC Logic pipe, BAC steering link, Integy ‘Piggy-back’ shocks, RPM wishbones, STS .28 engine, Carbon Fibre top deck, Titanium under plates, throttle/brake mod and Maximiser wheels shod with Losi Kingpin tyres.
A larger engine may well generate more heat than the original. I recommend fitting Finned Engine Mounts.
The fins increase the surface area of the mount, allowing more cooling air to circulate - reducing the temperature. They cost about £11.
Users of non-metal chassis are advised to fit these anyway. The metal chassis acts as a 'heat sink'. The heat from your engine travels to the cooler chassis - reducing engine temperature.
